Humans have evolved without fur to keep them safe and warm from the elements. Instead, they have developed skills to survive in other ways: such as the manufacture of various garments. This article has everything a backpacker needs to know about the most common fabrics used for travel clothing. It talks about the features, pros, and cons of natural, synthetic, and manufactured fabric types. It covers breathability, warmth to weight ratio, cost, durability, and sustainability. There are quick reference charts so you can easily compare fabrics and find the best to suit your needs.
In general, clothing descriptions are written by marketers, not scientists, who are trying to get you to buy their stuff. The verbage can get confusing or be deliberately misleading. Different materials have various benefits and shortcomings. Knowing what makes up a garment can tell you how it will perform. To help you make an informed decision, some of the most common fabrics and important features to consider are discussed below.
Polyester
Cotton
Rayon
Hemp
Linen
Cotton
Hemp
Linen
Lyocell/Tencel
Silk
Alpaca
Linen
Hemp
Alpaca
Cashmere
Wool
Wool
Hemp
Polyester
Microfiber
Acrylic
Nylon
Polyester
Cotton (non-organic)
Fabrics can be divided into three main categories: The information in the comparison charts relates to 100% materials, not blends.
NATURAL FIBERS: Fabrics made from animal proteins or plant fibers.
MANUFACTURED FIBERS: Laboratory created fabric made using naturally occurring cellulose and extensive chemical processing. It is also referred to as Regenerated Cellulose fabric because the process reconstitutes cellulose from plant stems and leaves into fiber. Manufactured fabric has characteristics in common with both natural and synthetic fibers, but it is generally considered a sub-type of synthetic fabric.
SYNTHETIC FIBERS: Laboratory made material derived from petroleum, coal, and/or other chemical compounds.
Acrylic was created as an alternative for wool, it’s been engineered to help you stay warm. It’s best use is in temperate to cool climates as outer layers such as sweaters, hoodies, and hats.
Source: Acrylic is a synthetic fabric that contains 85% or more Acrylonitrile, a compound derived from polypropylene (plastic), which is derived from petroleum. Acrylonitrile is also known as vinyl cyanide. The rest of acrylic can be made of a variety of other chemical compounds- what manufacturers decide to include greatly influences its properties. It was developed in a lab in 1941 as an alternative to wool and became popular in the 1950s.
Alpaca is the recommended choice for cold weather clothing, especially for anyone looking for an eco-friendly option.
Source: Alpaca fabric is made from the spun fibers of the aplaca’s fleece. Alpacas are domesticated herd animals native to South America. Their wild ancestors, the guanaca, still live around the Andes Mountains and Patagonia. Alpaca fleece is collected annually, which does not harm the animal. Each alpaca grows back up to 10 pounds of fleece every year.
Fun Fact
The alpaca is a relative of the camel. They often hum and vocalize, but communicate through body language as well.
Cashmere is for those who w-ant maximum warmth and comfort, no matter the price.
Grade A is the finest and softest, and therefore most expensive. Grade C has the coarsest fibers.
Source: Cashmere fabric is made from the fibers of Cashmere, Himilayan Pashmina, Mongolian, and other types of goats. The fibers are collected annually (which does not harm the goat) and spun into thread which can be knit or woven into garments. Cashmere goats produce up to two and a half pounds of fleece each year, but as little as ⅓ pounds may qualify as cashmere.
Fun Fact
Cashmere is named for Kashmir, a region in northern India. The area is politically unstable, so most cashmere is sourced from China and Mongolia.
I've had the travel bug for as long as I can remember. My hope is that I can help others find their own adventure.
Cotton is one of the most widely available and affordable clothing options.
Source: Cotton is made from the cotton plant, which happily grows in many areas of the world. The cotton boll (aka ball) is the fluffy, white material surrounding the seed of the plant. The boll is almost entirely made of cellulose which is harvested, spun into cotton thread, and woven or knit into garments.
Cuben Fiber (Dyneema) is the best choice for ultralight gear junkies who want to shed every ounce no matter the cost. But it’s applications are somewhat limited.
Source: Cuben Fiber fabric is a laminate of layers of polyethylene* fibers and polyester, and other components (such as catalysts, like benzoyl peroxide). Dyneema is the brand name for this material. It is also called DCF (Dyneema Cuben Fiber).
*Polyethylene is the most commonly used type of plastic: it is used for water bottles, plastic bags, toothbrushes, toys and lego, cosmetic containers, and more.
Hemp is the fabric of choice for adventurers who need gear that can keep up with them throughout a long, rugged adventure.
Source: Hemp cloth is created from fibers of the cannabis sativa plant. The plant has numerous uses in addition to textiles, such as paper, biofuel, shoes, sunscreen, food, and rope.
**“Water Absorption Behavior of Hemp Hurds Composites – NCBI.” 28 Apr. 2015, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5455568/. Accessed 4 May. 2020.
Fun Fact
The sails and ropes aboard the Mayflower were made of hemp.
Leather has long been a fashion statement. Although it does have practical uses, it’s too heavy for most backpackers to consider as a clothing option. Day bags and accessories are leather’s best application for travellers.
Source: Leather is the treated rawhide (skins) of various animals, usually from cows, but also goats, sheeps, and pigs. The rawhides undergo a process called tanning to make it into leather.
Linen is ideal for hot and humid climates. Don’t let yuppy marketing fool you, linen is a durable and practical fabric choice.
Source: Linen is a natural material of woven fibers made from the flax plant. The stalks contain long strands of fiber which are processed and made into thread/yarn, cord, or twine.
Linen is one of the oldest textiles.
Microfiber is the quick fix for backpackers who need decent performance for only a limited amount of time.
Source: Microfiber is fabric made from minuscule strands (3-5microns in diameter) of synthetic fiber. It is a blend of various synthetic fabrics: commonly polyester, acrylic, or nylon but may include other materials.
Nylon is an affordable choice for extended trips in temperate climates.
Source: Nylon was created in a laboratory in 1935. It was the first synthetic polymer material. Two of its major components are hexamethylenediamine, a petroleum or coal derivative, and adipic acid, a mildly toxic compound.
Polyester is good for short trips and the budget conscious.
Source: Polyester was developed shortly after nylon, and was also called Dacron or “China Silk”. Polyester is a chemical polymer produced from petroleum and ethanol, among other things. It is the third most popular type of plastic, making up about 10% of the plastic market. It is often blended with other materials to make it stretchy or add other properties.
Polyester Fleece is a lightweight way to stay warm in cool to very cold climates during leisure and low intensity activities…but it’s not the best option for managing sweat.
Source: Polyester fleece is made from PET polyester (the same kind is used for plastic soda bottles). PolarTech and PolarFleece are brand names for polyester fleece. Fleece is manufactured in the same way as regular polyester, but undergoes additional processing to change its texture: Polyester fabric is run through a napping machine to make it fluffy then sheared by another machine to a uniform level.
Rayon provides maximum softness in hot and muggy climates. Bamboo, Lyocell, Tencel, and Modal are types of rayon.
Source: Rayon is the term for any fabric processed from the cellulose of plants- it was first produced in the 1800s. Any plant that contains cellulose can be used to make rayon; marketers have assigned several names to the fabric according to its source (but this is not officially enforced). Rayon can be made from many types of wood, such as bamboo, oak, and eucalyptus, other agricultural products, and even seaweed. Most is made from wood pulp.
Bamboo is a type of rayon and shares the same characteristics. It is a comfortable choice in hot and muggy climates.
Source: Bamboo fabric is a form of viscose rayon. It is made from the leaves and parts of the trunk of bamboo, which is a type of grass, and a renewable resource. But all rayon, including bamboo, undergoes extensive chemical processing: the final product is almost pure cellulose, but it is exposed to a plethora of chemical compounds during manufacturing.
Lyocell/Tencel is the best choice for eco-conscious consumers that are limited by their budget.
Source: Lyocell is a type of rayon thread produced by Lenzing AG, an Australian company. It mainly uses bamboo or eucalyptus pulp, but may also source from oak or birch.
Modal is the best option for those who want the benefits of rayon without having to worry about taking care of it.
Source: Modal is a type of rayon thread mostly produced by Lenzing AG, an Australian company. It is made from the cellulose of beechwood trees.
Silk is a luxurious, well performing option for anything from warm to cold climates. It is good for travelers who plan to encounter a variety of situations and need a versatile, durable garment.
Source: Silk is produced from the thread that makes up a Mulberry Silkworm’s cocoon. The cocoon is soaked in boiling water and a single fiber is collected from each cocoon. The fibers are fed into a spinning wheel and made into thread.
Fun Fact
Silkworm silk provided the benchmark for measuring linear density, dubbed the denier (the mass per unit of length). Therefore, silkworm silk = 1 denier = ~10 microns.
Spandex is stretchy, which is why the name is an anagram for expands. It is almost always blended with other fabric types to add flexibility to them. Garments with spandex are best for comfort and allowing movement.
Source: Spandex is a synthetic, lab created fiber. It is made of 85% polyurethane, which is derived from petroleum. It is formed by combining a polyol (a molecule with more than two hydroxyl groups, such as polyester), with other chemical compounds, such as diisocyanates (TDI or MDI).
Wool (aka Merino Wool) is great for the adventurer who wants to prepare for any possible situation. It is particularly appropriate for temperate to very cold climates.
Source: Most wool comes from the fleece of Merino Sheep Originally bred in Spain, Merino sheep are a popular renewable resource in Australia and New Zealand. The fleece is shorn annually (which does not harm the sheep) and spun into fibers to make wool cloth. A single sheep can produce up to five pounds of wool every year.
Fabric options and manufacturing methods differ widely from one company to the next. But there are a few attributes that all fabrics have in common. It’s a good idea to have a basic idea of what some common features are in order to make an informed decision.
Light colors are great for hot climates: they reflect solar radiation (heat from the sun). But as a backpacker, white is not your friend. Unless you are okay with stains or spending a lot of time, energy, and money on laundry, opt for a cream or tan. If you don’t, it will end up there anyway.
Dark colors are great in temperate to cold climates, but the darkest shades should be avoided in super sunny climates. They are the best for hiding wear and tear, but soak up every bit of heat from the sun.
A traveler’s secret weapon is patterns: they are usually a mix of colors and their designs help to camoflauge any stains (or sweat marks). Have fun with it, be confident- traveling is a great time to try out a new style.
The mass of a fabric is measured in grams per square meter (g/㎡)- abbreviated as gsm. The higher the gsm, the thicker the fabric. And thicker garments tend to be more durable and warmer (but transfer less moisture). When shopping for cold weather clothing, look for a higher gsm, for example wool of 250-400gsm. For hot weather, lighter fabric is best, for example wool of 150gsm or less.
Thick Fabric >250gsm |
Thin Fabric <150gsm |
|
+Improves+ |
Insulation Durability |
Breathability
|
-Impedes- |
Breathability Moisture Wicking |
Insulation Durability |
This chart shows how weight and construction (indicated by fiber size) affect what fabrics are best suited for. This table uses WOOL as an example.
Wool Fiber Size |
≤150 gsm “Summer” |
150-250 gsm “Spring” |
250+ gsm “Fall” |
400+ gsm “Winter” |
Ultrafine <17.5 microns |
Hot & muggy climates Base layer |
Temperate climates Base layer |
Cool climate Base layer Mid layer |
Cold climates Base layer Mid layer |
Superfine ≤18.5 microns |
Hot & muggy climates Base layer
|
Temperate climates Base layer Mid layer |
Cool climate Base layer Mid layer |
Cold climates Base layer Mid layer |
Extra Fine ≤19.5 microns |
Hot climates Base layer Mid layer |
Temperate climates Base layer Mid layer |
Cool climate Base layer Mid layer |
Cold climates Base layer Mid layer |
Medium ≤22.5 microns |
Hot climates Mid layer
|
Temperate climates Mid layer Outer layer |
Cold climates Mid layer Outer layer |
Very cold climates Mid layer Outer layer |
Strong ≤24 microns |
Temperate climates Mid layer Outer layer
|
Temperate climates Mid layer Outer layer |
Cold climates Mid layer Outer layer |
Very cold climates Outer layer |
There are two categories of fabric construction: knit and woven. Whether knit or woven, a loose construction improves breathability, whereas a tight knit/weave decreases it.
Knit: A type of fabric made up of a single thread that is looped continuously. Knit fabrics are usually more flexible and less susceptible to wrinkles. The looping pattern of knit construction means there is more thread to give way when pulled into straight lines (whereas woven fabric is already straight). Knit fabrics can be pulled tight, but that is not to say that the thread of the garment is elastic: the thread itself doesn’t stretch out unless it has been blended with something to add elasticity, such as spandex. The problem with knits is that they may get runs or lose shape after too much stretching.
Woven: A type of fabric made from multiple threads that cross at right angles. Woven fabric may be of any texture. Woven fabrics usually have little to no stretch (unless blended with spandex), and wrinkle easily.
Goldilocks made some good points: you don’t want to be too hot, or too cold.
Fabrics keep you warm by trapping warm air against your skin (loft) or by stopping the heat from escaping (insulation). There is no fabric that can make you colder by itself, but they can limit your exposure to heat and promote evaporative cooling (which you will learn about in Breathability and Moisture Control). Backpackers must consider what thermoregulation qualities they need in their clothing.
Heat loss happens much faster in water than in air: roughly 25 times faster. Sometimes, that is a good thing: it helps keep you cool (which is why humans sweat). In other cases, staying warm if you get wet can mean the difference between a good or bad day, and possibly life or death.
Every fabric provides at least some protection from the sun by the mere fact that it is an additional layer between your skin and the energy emitted by our galaxy’s star. Some clothing is marketed with UPF ratings. A rating of UPF 50 means the fabric will block all but 1/50 of UV radiation, or 2%. The higher the number, the better the protection.
Manufacturers can add compounds to improve the fabrics UPF. The rating for every garment will be different depending on how it’s made, what color it is, how well it fits you, and more.
For more information about the importance of sun protection, read Sun Protection 101.
Antimicrobial fabric is good for travellers because it limits odor-causing bacteria. So you have to wash your clothing less frequently and in the meantime, won’t be stinky.
If a fabric claims to be “antibacterial” it means that it does not provide an ideal environment for microbes to grow. Marketers can apply the term “antibacterial” if the fabric is quick drying, breathable, or whatever, because -technically- reducing moisture content is one way to limit bacterial growth. But does the fabric fight bacteria because of properties innate to the fabric itself? Probably not.
A few fabrics (wool, alpaca, and cashmere) naturally fight bacteria growth because of the chemical properties of the material itself. Other natural fibers (hemp, linen) are so innately breathable and moisture wicking that okay, yes, they do handicap bacteria. Almost all other fabrics must go through some sort of additional treatment to become antimicrobial.
One popular antimicrobial treatment in textiles is called Silvadur: a silver-ion polymer. It is added to fabrics during manufacturing. Which means that after a certain number of washings, usually around 50, the technology will start to fail.
Most humans are lacking in the fur department, so they drape themselves in fabric to protect themselves from the elements. Wearing clothes creates a microenvironment between the skin and the layer(s) of fabric. The conditions of that microenvironment directly affect comfort, a concept about which humans are very particular. No one likes being hot and clammy, nor the feel of biting wind on a frigid day. The best clothing option is one that helps you thermoregulate and manage moisture.
Liquids, like water, evaporate when they absorb enough energy from their surroundings to change state, from a liquid into a gas. The water molecules take tiny amounts of thermal energy (heat) with them as they go, leaving the area cooler because of it. Losing heat to water vapor is called evaporative cooling. Humans are naturally capable of evaporative cooling: it’s called sweating.
Adequate moisture management is influenced by several components such as breathability, weight and construction, fit, and how a garment reacts to water molecules.
Breathability refers to how well a fabric allows air and water vapor to pass through, so moisture (perspiration) can evaporate. When moisture evaporates directly from the skin’s surface, you get the maximum benefit of evaporative cooling, rather than it cooling the outside of the fabric.
Breathability is:
In scientific terms, breathability refers to a fabric’s MVTR, moisture vapor transmission rate (also called WVTR, Water Vapor Transmission Rate). MVTR measures how much water vapor can pass through one square meter of fabric in one day.
MVTR = g/㎡/24hrs
Breathability is marketed as the holy grail of temperature regulation and moisture control. It is an important element, but it is only one piece of the puzzle. Breathability is affected by the garment’s fabric weight, construction (seams, creases, openings), fit, moisture wicking, absorbency, and the hydrophobic nature of the material itself. A higher MVTR means better evaporative cooling.
Weight and construction were introduced earlier, but to recap: how a fabric is manufactured, directly affects its breathability. Manufacturers carefully consider the end use of a product when selecting what fabric to use.
Weight: For a given type of fabric, a light weight construction is more breathable than a heavier weight option (see Fabric Weight). Heavier fabric lets less air in and less heat out.
Construction: Loosely knit/woven fabric has a higher MVTR than tightly knit/woven fabric- it is more breathable. Think of how a screen door lets the wind in but a brick wall doesn’t.
Fit refers to how clothing sits on your body. It is about more than how you look, it has very practical functions, especially relating to breathability.
Hydrophilic fabrics are those that absorb or wick moisture: they are attracted to water on the molecular level. Fabrics made from natural fibers such as alpaca, cashmere, silk, and wool are hydrophilic. Fibers containing plant cellulose such as cotton, hemp, and rayon are also hydrophilic.
Hydrophilic fabric:
Hydrophobic materials are not attracted to water on the molecular level. They do not mix with or absorb water without special manufacturing and treatment. Hydrophobic fabrics are usually those derived from petroleum, an oil. Oil and water don’t mix. Polyester, nylon, and cuben fiber are hydrophobic fibers. Hydrophobic materials just push water around: think of trying to mop up a spill with a plastic bag- it just doesn’t work.
Hydrophobic fabric:
It is important to note that polyester and nylon may be specially manufactured and treated to make them absorb or wick moisture. However, the fabric is still an oil based product. After time, or if not properly cared for, treated fabric will lose any absorbent/wicking qualities as the fabric breaks down or gets clogged with oil (which nylon and polyester do bond to).
These terms refer to ways a fabric interacts with moisture, but their operation and functions are very different.
Moisture absorbing means the molecules comprising the material bond to water molecules, temporarily holding on to those molecules until something, like evaporation, breaks its hold. Water molecules are positively charged on one side and negatively charged on the other. Fabrics that absorb water are actually electromagnetically attracted to the charge of a water molecule, so they stick together. Water permeates into a cotton T-shirt, rather than beading and rolling off like it would a nylon umbrella.
Absorbent fabric:
Different materials can absorb different amounts of water. A fabric’s absorbency is reported as a percentage: how much water is absorbed compared to the mass of the fabric when it’s dry.
Maximum absorbency is the maximum amount of water a fabric can hold before it is saturated and feels wet.
Moisture regain is the amount of water a fabric can hold in “normal conditions”: at 70℉/21℃ in 65% humidity.
Together, maximum absorbency and moisture regain indicate the overall absorption performance of a fabric.
Moisture wicking means the fabric moves water molecules from one area to another, by way of microscopic tubes, called capillaries. A capillary is like a straw that attracts the water up it electromagnetically. The ability to move moisture to the fabric’s surface facilitates evaporation. You have seen moisture wicking if you have ever used a paper towel to soak up water.
Wicking fabric:
NB: Adsorption is when water molecules stick to the outside surface of a material, but do not penetrate within the material. Adsorption is similar to wicking in the sense that it moves water, but only along the material’s surface. Some synthetic fibers can be treated to add adsorption properties.
Fun Fact
The scientific term to describe material that attracts water molecules is “hygroscopic”.
Sustainability refers to how eco-friendly a product’s materials and manufacturing process are. Sustainability is a complicated issue and many factors affect it, such as:
Every product varies, so if you want to know what you are buying into, you will have to do your own research. There are far too many options to cover them all in depth. Beware that some companies try to capitalize on a consumers’ wish to “be green” by marketing their product in misleading ways….did someone say Bamboo?
Acrylic Sustainability: Terrible
Acrylic is made from a combination of harsh chemicals. Mostly, it is made of acrylonitrile, a petroleum (fossil fuel) derivative. It is processed with toxic chemicals, such as dimethylformamide, a solvent. Manufacturing requires sodium hydroxide, carbon disulfide, and sulfuric acid. It is also an energy intensive process. Unlike other synthetic materials, acrylic is difficult to recycle.
Alpaca Sustainability: Excellent
Roughly 80% of the world’s Alpaca population live in their native climate within South America, mostly Peru. Most producers are small, local farmers using traditional methods. That means environmental effects are less concentrated in one area. Alpaca have soft feet, not hooves, which is less impactful on the terrestrial landscape, but they still produce byproducts such as methane gas, a type of greenhouse gas. As demand increases, farming is becoming increasingly popular in California. While production volumes are still low, the negative impact of alpaca fabric is low, but as demand increases, it will face the same issues of scale that wool and cashmere does. Alpaca can be recycled.
Cashmere Sustainability: Moderate
Cashmere is made from goat fiber: it is natural, renewable, and biodegradable. The physical production of fleece into fabric is very clean compared to synthetics, but there are the goats themselves to consider. Cashmere is mainly sourced from Mongolia and China, where the harsh environment makes life on the goats hard (which is why they evolved the hair they did). As Cashmere demand increases more land is needed for pasture, the growing demand for food decimates the natural landscape and leaves many goats malnourished and literally out in the cold. Cashmere goats yield less than merino sheep, so more and more goats are needed to meet demand- and more goats means more methane waste and land destruction. As with all protein fibers (cashmere, wool, and alpaca) sustainability is an issue of scale, aka human demand. Cashmere can be recycled into new clothing.
Cotton Sustainability: Low, unless organic
Although cotton is a natural material, it has been called the “world’s dirtiest crop” because it is often grown with very detrimental fertilizers and insecticides, and it always requires a lot of water [more on the Ethics of Cotton]. 70% of the world’s fresh water goes to agriculture, and 3% of that goes to cotton, specifically. According to TheWorldCounts.com, it takes about 2,700 liters of water to produce one cotton t-shirt. Cotton can be recycled but it is difficult.
Shop for organic cotton when you can. Certified organic cotton means it has not been genetically modified and is grown without synthetic chemicals.
Cuben Fiber (Dyneema) Sustainability: Low
Cuben fiber contains polyethylene, which is made from ethane (a hydrocarbon found in natural gas or as a by-product of petroleum refining), and polyester (basically another kind of plastic). Production contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. DSM Dyneema, the company that produces cuben fiber, has sustainability goals to “reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 40%, energy consumption by 20% and water use by 15%, all by 2020.”** However, they are not forthcoming with what those numbers actually represent. The manufacture of cuben fiber requires little water to produce. However, it is a kind of plastic, which means it does not decompose and if not properly disposed of could end up as pollution.
**“Dyneema®: The Greenest Strength™ | Textile World.” 11 Jul. 2016, https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/fiber-world/2016/07/dyneema-the-greenest-strength/. Accessed 3 May. 2020.
Hemp Sustainability: Moderate to High
Hemp may be phyto-remediative, which means it removes harmful chemicals from soil. The plant requires relatively little water (about 50% compared to cotton). It is usually grown without fertilizers, amd it is naturally herbicidal (kills off competing plants). Many companies process hemp with chemicals, which damage the environment, but a slower option is available mechanically (without chemicals). If a product was made responsibly, they will advertise the fact; if not mentioned, assume it was made via the chemical method.
Leather Sustainability: Poor
Over 80% of leather is made from cows, which are notoriously bad for the environment. Leather must be tanned to be usable, which is most commonly done with very harsh chemicals, such as chromium (a heavy metal) or aldehyde, although more eco-friendly, plant-based alternatives do exist. The largest producer of leather is China, which further adds to leather’s carbon footprint because of transportation costs.
Linen Sustainability: Moderate
The flax plant, which is used to make linen, is not known for needing much water to grow, and the plant has many uses. However, linen must be heavily bleached to get it white, and it is sometimes grown with harmful insecticides and fertilizers. When grown organically and left unbleached, linen is one of the most environmentally friendly cloth options.
Microfiber Sustainability: Low
Microfiber is basically plastic. It is made from chemicals, produced with chemicals, and doesn’t biodegrade. Every time a synthetic material is washed, it releases microplastics into the environment.
Nylon Sustainability: Low
One step in the manufacture of Nylon requires Benzene, a known carcinogen. Depending on the type of nylon being produced additional harmful chemicals are used, for example nylon type 6.6 uses nitrous oxide, which depletes the ozone layer and is 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide. In 1991, it was estimated that 10% of the increase in atmospheric nitrous oxide came from the production of nylon.** Nylon requires 3 times as much energy to produce compared to cotton, is difficult to dye (contributes to water pollution), and does not biodegrade- however, it could, in theory, be recycled. Nylon releases microplastics into the water when washed.
**“Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6 | O ECOTEXTILES.” 5 Jun. 2012, https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2012/06/05/nylon-6-and-nylon-66/. Accessed 5 May. 2020.
Polyester Sustainability: Low
The main ingredients in polyester are ethylene glycol (aka antifreeze), a petroleum derivative, and terephthalic acid, another petroleum derivative. The two most common types of polyester are PET and PCDT (which stand for polyethylene terephthalate and poly-1.4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene). Manufacturing is a complicated chemical process that is energy intensive and uses lots of water. Not only are the chemicals used in manufacturing ecologically unfriendly, but polyester requires special dyes that are insoluble in water and may be mutagenic or carcinogenic. Polyester releases microplastics into the water when washed. It is not biodegradable but it could, in theory, be recycled.
Silk Sustainability: Good
Most silkworms are usually fed Mulberry leaves; the tree is known for needing less water than cotton and few pesticides or fertilizers. Cleaning and preparing silk can call for several harsh chemicals, which, when improperly disposed of, pollute the groundwater. Manufacturing silk on a large scale requires significant mechanical processing, and therefore energy. Organic silk is even better because it uses organic Mulberry trees and dyes.
Spandex Sustainability: Poor
Spandex is made from petroleum and is manufactured using a type of compound called isocyanates, which is known to cause cancer in animals and “potentially” in humans. Spandex manufacturing requires toxic chemicals, a lot of water, and the finished product is not biodegradable.
Wool Sustainability: Good
Wool is a natural, renewable, biodegradable resource. To make fabric from wool, the fleece is harvested, cleaned, detangled, and spun into yarn. The process requires relatively little chemicals, water, and energy. The negative environmental impact from wool comes from raising the animals on a massive scale: Land is cleared for grazing, the fleece are treated with insecticides and fungicides, and the sheep produce methane (a greenhouse gas) as a waste product. Sheep are mammals which calls into question animal rights and the risk of cruelty. To summarize, a few sheep aren’t bad, but a zillion are. Many companies work to improve sustainability within their company and provide excellent products, such as IceBreaker. Wool clothing can be recycled.
Fun Fact
65% of the fibers produced globally are synthetic, and 35% are natural. Sustainable synthetics make up only 0.07% of synthetic production**. Companies that make an effort to use sustainable synthetics include Patagonia, Nike, Target, and H&M.
**“Synthetics & Sustainable Synthetic Fibres | Common Objective.” 29 May. 2018, https://www.commonobjective.co/article/synthetics-sustainable-synthetics-global-production. Accessed 6 May. 2020.
Polyester Fleece Sustainability: Very Low
Fleece is made of polyester, so it has all the same environmental impacts, however it requires more energy because of the additional processing and releases massive amounts of microplastics when washed because. As a type of polyester, it may be made using recycled products; Patagonia claims its recycled fleece jackets are made from the equivalent of 25 plastic bottles.
Rayon Sustainability: Poor
Rayon is made from renewable resources, but has a questionable environmental impact when considering the manufacturing process. It uses more energy to produce rayon per unit than it does cotton. Rayon requires intensive use of chemicals to separate the cellulose and form it into thread. Dissolving pulp requires sodium hydroxide (lye/caustic soda) and carbon disulfide (a toxic, volatile liquid compound); Forming the thread calls for sulfuric acid, which is highly corrosive.
Bamboo Fabric Sustainability: Poor
Bamboo is a renewable resource that requires ⅓ the amount of water to grow that cotton does. It grows quickly and requires few pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. But, being a type of rayon, the manufacturing process requires heavy use of chemicals. Growing bamboo isn’t the problem, making it into fabric is. Certifications (like Standard 100 from Oeko-Tex) refer to the finished product, not the manufacturing process.
Lyocell (aka Tencel) Sustainability: Moderate
Lyocell is produced using different chemical solvents (amine oxide vs sulfuric acid) and a different method than traditional (viscose) rayon. This method uses 80% less water during production than cotton does. Lenzing AG claims that most of the water can be recycled and that 95% of the chemical solvents are reclaimed (and thus not disposed of into the environment). However energy costs are still high. Lyocell is most commonly made from bamboo, and Tencel is most commonly made from eucalyptus: Both bamboo and eucalyptus are known for needing little water, pesticides, and fertilizers.
Modal Sustainability: Moderate
Lyocell is produced using a similar method as Lyocell, but the source material is Beechwood. Beechwood trees can be grown responsibly, but not all modal producers do so.
Fabric production is a science. And there are lots of options. The best solution is not one choice, but rather, the combination of several options.
In warmer climates, breathability and moisture wicking are important considerations to help you stay cool. As layers come into the picture in cooler climates, it’s important that base layers absorb perspiration, mid layers wick away moisture so that it can evaporate, and outer layers protect you from the elements, like wind and rain.
Natural fabrics offer excellent performance and durability, but require additional care and carry a hefty price tag. Synthetics are easy to find and have specialized performances at affordable prices, but added features wear out quickly.
Knowing the attributes of different fabrics allows you to make an informed decision about what is best for you. Good luck, it’s a lot to take in.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission or compensation if you click through and/or make a purchase. The opinions and recommendations expressed here are my own.
Cellulose: an organic compound made of a long chain of carbohydrate molecules. Cellulose is what makes up a plant’s cell walls. Humans can not digest cellulose (which you may have observed after eating corn).
Evaporative Cooling: water absorbs heat as it transitions from a liquid to a gas. Sweat works to cool you down because of evaporative cooling.
Fabric Weight: reported as gsm, which stands for grams per square meter. The higher the weight, the thicker (and more durable) the material is.
Humidity: the concentration of water vapor in the air, reported as a percentage of the maximum amount of water it can hold. Humidity is a relative measurement. It is affected by factors such as the air temperature (warm air can hold more water than cold air) and pressure (high pressure, like at sea level, can hold more water than low pressure). Therefore, a reading of 80% humidity on the top of Mt Everest, is much, much drier in objective terms, than 80% in Disney World.
Hydrophilic: adheres to, i.e. absorbs, water molecules at the atomic level. Example: vinegar.
Hydrophobic: repels water molecules at the atomic level. Example: olive oil.
Maximum absorbency: is the maximum amount of water a fabric can hold before it is saturated and feels wet. Reported as a percentage of the fabrics dry weight.
Moisture regain: the amount of water a fabric can hold in “normal conditions”: at 70℉/21℃ in 65% humidity.
Polymer: a substance made up of repeating units of similar molecules. A diamond is a polymer: it is a repeating pattern of carbon atoms bonded together. Wood, rubber, silk, cellulose, protein, and DNA are a few examples of naturally occuring polymers. Synthetic polymers include polyester, Teflon, polyethylene, and polyester.
Natural Fibers Comparison Chart |
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ALPACA | CASHMERE PASHMINA | COTTON | HEMP | LEATHER | LINEN | SILK | WOOL | |
Best For | Temperate to Very Cold climates Long trips Hiking Naturally flame retardant Eco-conscious consumers | Temperate to Very Cold climates Long trips Hiking Warmth to weight ratio Naturally flame retardant | Hot, dry climates Budget conscious No fuss care | Hot, humid climates Durability UV protection Odor control | Jackets Day Bags Accessories | Hot and/or humid climates Durability Odor control | Temperate to cold climates Naturally flame retardant Eco-conscious consumers | Variable climates Long trips Hiking Naturally flame retardant |
Best Layer | Base Mid Outer | Base Mid Outer | Base Mid Outer | Base Mid | Outer | Base Mid | Base Mid | Base Mid Outer |
Problem Areas | Damaged by harsh detergents and castille soap Vulnerable to moths | Shrinkage Pilling Damaged by harsh detergents and castille soap Vulnerable to moths | Shrinkage Warping Muggy weather | Shrinkage Inelastic Initially coarse texture | Heavy Inelastic | Shrinkage Inelastic Damaged by harsh detergents | Shrinkage Inelastic Damaged by harsh detergents Degraded by UV | Shrinkage Damaged by harsh detergents and castille soap Vulnerable to moths |
INFO AND SPECS | ALPACA | CASHMERE PASHMINA | COTTON | HEMP | LEATHER | LINEN | SILK | WOOL |
Source | Alpaca | Cashmere goats Pashmina goats | Cotton plant | Cannabis sativa plant | Animal hide | Flax plant | Silkworm | Sheep |
Texture | Soft Knit or woven | Very Soft Knit or woven | Soft Knit or woven | Somewhat coarse, softens with use Knit or woven | Varied Softens with use | Woven, softens with use | Very soft Knit or woven | Soft Knit or woven |
Affordability | Very Expensive | Very Expensive | Affordable | Somewhat expensive | Expensive | Expensive | Very expensive | Expensive |
Availability | Limited | Limited | Very common | Available online | Common, specialty items | Available online | Limited | Common |
Care Requirements | Delicate | Delicate | Easy | Easy | Easy | Moderate | Delicate | Moderate- Delicate |
Durability | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent | Good |
Flame Resistance | Good | Good | Poor | Poor | Excellent | Poor | Good | Good |
Odor Control (Antimicrobial) | Yes | Yes | No | Yes | No | Yes | No | Yes |
Wrinkle Resistance | Excellent | Excellent | Poor | Terrible | n/a (Will crease) | Terrible | Good | Excellent |
MOISTURE CONTROL | ALPACA | CASHMERE PASHMINA | COTTON | HEMP | LEATHER | LINEN | SILK | WOOL |
Breathability MVTR/WVTR | Excellent | Excellent | Good | Excellent | Terrible | Excellent | Moderate | Excellent |
Maximum Absorbency | 30% | 35% | 24-27% | 20% | Varies | 20% | 35% | 30% |
Moisture Regain | 15% | 15% | 8.5% | 12.4% | 10-28% | 12.4% | 11% | 18.5% |
Moisture Wicking | Yes | Yes | No | Yes | No | Yes | No | Yes |
Quick Drying | No | No | No | Yes | No | Yes | Yes | No |
THERMOREGULATION | ALPACA | CASHMERE PASHMINA | COTTON | HEMP | LEATHER | LINEN | SILK | WOOL |
Insulation | Excellent | Excellent | Moderate | Poor | Good | Poor- Moderate | Good | Excellent |
Insulation if Wet | Excellent | Excellent | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor | Good | Excellent |
Warmth to Weight Ratio | Excellent | Excellent | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor | Excellent | Excellent |
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT | ALPACA | CASHMERE PASHMINA | COTTON | HEMP | LEATHER | LINEN | SILK | WOOL |
Biodegradable | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Synthetic Fabrics Comparison Chart |
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ACRYLIC | CUBEN FIBER “DYNEEMA” | MICROFIBER | NYLON | POLYESTER | POLYESTER FLEECE | SPANDEX (aka ELASTANE or LYCRA) | |
Best For | Temperate to cold climates Fade resistant | Rain gear Stuff sacks Ultralight | Temperate climates Low maintenance | Temperate climates Durability | Variable climates Short trips Budget conscious | Cool to very cold climates Light activities Weight conscious | Stretch |
Best Layer | Outer | Outer shell | Mid | Mid Outer Outer shell | Mid Outer Outer Shell | Outer | Base Mid Outer |
Problem Areas | Properties vary Pilling Bulky Damaged by abrasion Very flammable Static cling Microplastics | Damage from friction and punctures Zero breathability | Limited lifespan Quality Varies Damaged by fabric softener Microplastics | Inelastic unless blended Hot climates Muggy weather | Properties vary Quality varies Absorbs oils | Bulky Absorbs oils Microplastics | Pilling Damaged by repeated drying or ironing |
INFO AND SPECS | ACRYLIC | CUBEN FIBER “DYNEEMA” | MICROFIBER | NYLON | POLYESTER | POLYESTER FLEECE | SPANDEX (aka ELASTANE or LYCRA) |
Source | Chemical polymer | Chemical polymer | Chemical polymer: usually polyester + nylon | Chemical polymer | Chemical polymer | Chemical polymer | Chemical polymer |
Texture | Soft Silky Knit or woven | Crinkly Plastic | Very soft Knit or woven | Soft Silky Knit | Varies Knit or woven | Soft and fluffy Knit | Soft and stretchy Knit or woven Slightly lustrous |
Affordability | Affordable | Expensive | Affordable | Affordable | Affordable | Affordable | Affordable |
Availability | Common | Limited supply and options | Common | Very common | Very common | Very common | Very common |
Care Requirements | Easy | Very easy | Easy | Easy | Easy | Easy | Easy |
Durability | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate | Excellent | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate- Poor |
Flame Resistance | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor |
Odor Control (Antimicrobial) | No | No | No | No | No | No | No |
Wrinkle Resistance | Good | Poor | Excellent | Good | Good | Excellent | Excellent |
MOISTURE CONTROL | ACRYLIC | CUBEN FIBER “DYNEEMA” | MICROFIBER | NYLON | POLYESTER | POLYESTER FLEECE | SPANDEX (aka ELASTANE or LYCRA) |
Breathability MVTR/WVTR | Poor | Terrible | Moderate | Poor | Poor unless treated | Excellent | Moderate |
Maximum Absorbency | 0% | 0% | Varies by product Up to 700% | 1.5-10% | 0.4% unless treated | 0.4% | 1-1.5% |
Moisture Regain | 1.5-2.5% | 0.4% | Varies | 4% | 0.4% unless treated | 0.4% | 0.6-1.2% |
Moisture Wicking | No unless treated | No | Yes | Yes | No unless treated | No | Yes |
Quick Drying | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
THERMOREGULATION | ACRYLIC | CUBEN FIBER “DYNEEMA” | MICROFIBER | NYLON | POLYESTER | POLYESTER FLEECE | SPANDEX (aka ELASTANE or LYCRA) |
Insulation | Good | Poor | Good | Poor | Good | Excellent | Poor |
Insulation if Wet | Poor | Poor | Good | Poor | Moderate | Moderate- Poor | Poor |
Warmth to Weight Ratio | Moderate | Poor | Good | Moderate | Good | Excellent | Poor |
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT | ACRYLIC | CUBEN FIBER “DYNEEMA” | MICROFIBER | NYLON | POLYESTER | POLYESTER FLEECE | SPANDEX (aka ELASTANE or LYCRA) |
Biodegradable | No | No | No | No | No | No | No |
Manufactured Fabrics Comparison Chart |
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RAYON aka VISCOSE | RAYON: BAMBOO | RAYON: LYOCEL/TENCEL | RAYON: MODAL | |
Best For | Hot to cool climates Cozy feel | Hot and humid to cool climates Soft and comfortable | Hot and humid to cool climates The eco-conscious on a budget Most durable type of rayon | Hot and humid to cool climates Comfort and soft feel Relatively easy care (vs other rayons) |
Best Layer | Mid | Base Mid | Base Mid | Base Mid |
Problem Areas | Shrinkage Delicate Weakened by water Muggy weather Very flammable | Shrinkage Damaged by harsh detergents and fabric softener Hype | Shrinkage Mildew Damaged by harsh detergents and fabric softener | Damaged by harsh detergents and fabric softener |
INFO AND SPECS | RAYON aka VISCOSE | RAYON: BAMBOO | RAYON: LYOCEL/TENCEL | RAYON: MODAL |
Source | Cellulose | Bamboo cellulose | Eucalyptus, bamboo, oak, and/or birch cellulose | Beechwood cellulose |
Texture | Varies Knit or woven | Rough Lustrous Knit or woven | Soft Knit or woven | Soft Glossy Knit or woven |
Affordability | Affordable | Somewhat expensive | Affordable | Affordable |
Availability | Very common | Common | Common | Common |
Care Requirements | Moderate- Delicate | Moderate | Delicate | Easy |
Durability | Moderate- Poor | Moderate | Good | Moderate |
Flame Resistance | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor |
Odor Control (Antimicrobial) | No | No | No | No |
Wrinkle Resistance | Poor | Moderate | Good | Moderate |
MOISTURE CONTROL | RAYON aka VISCOSE | RAYON: BAMBOO | RAYON: LYOCEL/TENCEL | RAYON: MODAL |
Breathability MVTR/WVTR | Moderate | Good | Good | Good |
Maximum Absorbency | 14-70% | 38% | 35-40% | 35-40% |
Moisture Regain | 11% | 13% | 13% | 11-14% |
Moisture Wicking | Yes, but very little | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Quick Drying | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
THERMOREGULATION | RAYON aka VISCOSE | RAYON: BAMBOO | RAYON: LYOCEL/TENCEL | RAYON: MODAL |
Insulation | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate |
Insulation if Wet | Moderate | Poor | Poor | Poor |
Warmth to Weight Ratio | Poor | Poor | Poor | Poor |
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT | RAYON aka VISCOSE | RAYON: BAMBOO | RAYON: LYOCEL/TENCEL | RAYON: MODAL |
Biodegradable | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
― Robert Orben